Renaissance Rabbitry

This page is kept up to date with current available animals and their information including weights and sale prices. We breed fully pedigreed, purebred Silver Fox  and New Zealand rabbits, as well as hybrid crosses (our own “Renaissance Rabbits”) between the two breeds. You can read more about our goals with the breeding program below. Breeding months are September (first kits) through April (last kits), so no kits will be available after the last litter(s) are ready to go in May/June. See below for a list of breeders and available animals for sale.

 Silver Fox Breeder Does:
LKR’s Sookie Stackhouse – proven black doe
MR79 Queenie – proven blue doe
RR Powder Blue – homebred Jr. blue doe
DF Faith – black Jr. doe (by GC buck)

Silver Fox Breeder Bucks:
LKR’s Purple Rain – proven lilac buck
RR Fin – homebred black buck
RR Navy Blue – homebred Jr. blue buck

New Zealand Breeder Does:
None at this time

New Zealand Breeder Bucks:
RR Prince Charming – Jr. broken blue buck

Renaissance Rabbit (Hybrid) Breeder Does:
None at this time

Renaissance Rabbit (Hybrid) Breeder Bucks:
None at this time

For Sale:
RR-RS0917 litter: RS05 spoken for, RS04, RS09, RS10 sold; all others available
RR-RQ1017 litter: RQ02 spoken for; RQ01 available

Litters on the Ground:
RR-RS0917: Rain x Sookie litter kindled 9/11/17 – 3 blacks & 5 blues
RR-RQ1017: Rain x Queenie litter kindled 10/6/17 – 2 blues

2017-2018 Breeding Season Plan

All about the ‘Renaissance rabbit’:

The idea for the Renaissance Rabbit stemmed from my love for Silver Fox. I am always so happy with the tempers and mothering ability of my SF, however I am always looking for ways to increase litter numbers, and I am also not thrilled that they are not entirely heat hardy – have lost a couple to heat stroke. I bred New Zealands for a short time, and I realized that they are prolific and hardy, however they do not have the best tempers. They also forage well. Through this, the idea for the Renaissance Rabbit was born.

Many people already breed SF x NZ hybrids, however I have a specific SOP and goals for my own personal rabbits, based on my own created rating system. Qualities that I base my ratings off of include: temper, size, butcher ratio, fur, type, breeding, and for does only, mothering. I rate animals from 0 to 3, and any animal that has less than a 2 average, or any animal with a ‘0’ rating in any category will be culled from the program. Further descriptions are below:

  • General Type – well rounded hips, filled loin, ribs carrying forward to combine with shoulders; shoulders to blend smoothly with midsection, midsection smoothly into hindquarters; body of medium length; depth equal to width along entire body; line should start at base of ears, rise upward curve to high point over center of hips, fall in smooth curve to base of tail; sides taper slightly from shoulders towards hindquarters; dewlap permitted on does
    • Hindquarters – broad, smooth, well rounded, firm flesh; lower portion of hips to be well developed & full; depth equal width consistent with well-rounded top line
    • Midsection – broad, firm, meaty, as much flesh as possible on both sides of spine; side appearance of good depth & conform with width of body; belly to be firm, free from potty appearance
    • Shoulders – well developed, good depth & width, balance with rest of body
    • Head, Ears, Feet, Legs – full head, mod round face & cheeks, slight surve between eyes & nose; head should balance & conform with body and set close on shoulders with short as possible neck; ears medium thick, well furred, well shaped, rounded at tips, proportionate; heavy ear base, carried erect; straight, medium heavy, medium length bone; hind legs & feet to be firm, stout, well padded; uniform toenails as dark as possible
  • Fur – stand up fur (some flyback acceptable, but should be minimal)
  • Color – acceptable colors include black, blue, chocolate, lilac, and broken of all varieties, all with some degree of silvering; preference is to more heavily silvered animals but WITHOUT any large white spots/markings (within the colored areas of broken animals); no charlies permitted
    • Pattern – both ears colored, color around eyes & nose; spotted or blanket pattern; evenly balanced pattern; toenails may be combination on broken varieties; no charlies
  • Condition – firm flesh, finished fur
  • Ideal Weights – junior bucks: 5 to 7 lbs ; junior does: 6 to 9 lbs ; senior bucks: 9 to 11lbs; senior does: 10 to 12lbs – preference is given to larger breeding stock; max weight senior bucks: 13lbs; max weight senior does: 15lbs
  • Overall Description: the Renaissance Rabbit is a mixture of two commercial meat breeds, the Silver Fox and the New Zealand. This mixture is an effort to bring out the best treats for both breeds; the heartiness, prolific breeding, and excellent growing rate of New Zealands with the temperament, fur and butcher ratio of the Silver Fox. The Renaissance should be a solid, meaty breed with good length and a balanced overall appearance. The fur should be of similar quality to the Silver Fox, with heavy silvering even throughout broken varieties. Temperament should be mellow and relaxed, ideal for commercial as well as small-scale breeding setups. Does should produce between 7 to 10 kits per litter and have good to excellent mothering ability. Bucks should weight up to 11 lbs fully grown with a max weight of 13lbs, does no more than 15lbs, ideally 10-12lbs. Grow out rabbits should reach 5lbs by 8 weeks of age, no later than by 10 weeks. 


Rating System:

  • Temper
    • 0 – aggressive or too flighty
    • 1 – flighty, stays away from caretaker, prefers not to be handled
    • 2 – allows petting, prefers not to be handled, eats from hand occasionally, does not run/show fear of caretaker
    • 3 – mellow, accepts handling, greets caretaker at cage door
  • Size
    • 0 – any animal less than 8 lbs at 6 months OR less than 5 lbs at 10 weeks
    • 1 – Males 8 to 9.5 lbs by 6 months OR 5 to 5.5 lbs 10 weeks; females 9 to 10 lbs by 6 months OR 5 to 6.5 lbs by 10 weeks; OR over max weight
    • 2 – Males over 9.5 lbs by 6 months OR over 5.5 lbs by 10 weeks; females over 10 lbs by 6 months OR over 6.5 lbs by 10 weeks
    • 3 – Meets but does not exceed maximum weights by senior age OR reaches 7 lbs by 10 weeks of age
  • Butcher Ratio
    •  0 – Less than 45% live to butcher ratio/any animal producing 3 or more litters where the average is less than 45% live to butcher ratio
    • 1 – 45-50% live to butcher ratio/any animal producing 3 or more litters where the average is 45-50% live to butcher ratio
    • 2 – 51-60% live to butcher ratio/any animal producing 3 or more litters where the average is 51-60% live to butcher ratio
    • 3 – 61-65% live to butcher ratio/any animal producing 3 or more litters where the average is 61-65% live to butcher ratio*
      • *special consideration is given to any animal producing over 65+% live to butcher ratio – considerations may be made to keep an animal who would otherwise be a cull based on butcher ratio production
  • Fur
    • 0 – any color not specified above, an animal lacking silvering, charlie patterns (EnEn)
    • 1 – Small amount of silvering, fur too thin (more like NZ), any animal with excessive white spots that are not patterned
    • 2 – Moderate silvering, moderate pattern, moderate fur quality
    • 3 – heavy silvering, excellent pattern & fur quality
  • Type
    • 0 – does not keep/put on weight easily, slow to grow, uneven body, any excessive fault
    • 1 – too thin, poor development, shallow sections, not meaty enough
    • 2 – moderate development, broad but some slight faults
    • 3 – largely fault-free, broad body, smooth, well rounded, firm
  • Breeding
    • 0 – bucks siring 3 or more litters with less than 5 kits; does having 3 or more litters with less than 5 kits
    • 1 – Bucks siring 3 or more litters with 5-7 kits; does having 3 or more litters with 5-7 kits
    • 2 – Bucks siring 3 or more litters with 8-10 kits; does having 3 or more litters with 8-10 kits
    • 3 – Bucks siring 3 or more litters with 10+ kits; does having 3 or more litters with 10+ kits
  • Mothering (does only)
    • 0 – losses totaling 50%+ of live-born kits in 3 or more litters / does not build nest or pull fur; poor to no mothering ability
    • 1 – Losses totaling 40-49% of live-born kits in 3 or more litters
    • 2 – Losses totaling 30-39% of live-born kits in 3 or more litters
    • 3 – Losses totaling less than 30% of live-born kits in 3 or more litters